Created in 1989, the annual ANDAM Fashion Awards offers a financial and logistic support to fashion designers chosen after a long and in-depth selection process. The prize, recognised for highlighting young talents in fashion, has previously been awarded to Wanda Nylon (2016), Stéphane Ashpool from Pigalle (2015), Iris van Herpen (2014), Christine Phung (2013), or AMI Alexandre Mattuissi (2013), just to name a few. This year, a new prize will reward innovation in fashion, under the expert eyes of a first class jury.
Good news for the fashion-tech world! This season, NYFW welcomed among its participants a young tech savvy brand: Ab[Screenwear]. Created by Olya Petrova Jackson in 2016, the brand aims at renewing the nature of contact between people and technology with the apparel acting as a technical device. Far from a mere “gimmicky” view of the technical outfits, Petrova Jackson designs chic pieces of fashion-tech. To fully understand her work and inspiration, we sat down with the designer to ask her a few questions about her collection.
Back in November 2011, the LVMH Group (home to Louis Vuitton, Celine, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs, to name just a few) and renowned college of art and design Central Saint Martins, started a historic, long-term collaboration which revealed numerous new talents. Six years later, WWD reports the two allies took a new decisive step in their global strategic agreement, with the funding of a groundbreaking sustainability and innovation program, deepening the already solid relationship between the Group and the college.
Created in 2016, Kalypse introduced a brand new type of wetsuits: they are innovative, comfortable and… couture. Indeed, the very young and yet very savvy start-up was able to skilfully connect technology to aesthetics in order to elaborate tailor-made wetsuits. On top of this, Kalypse is a made-in-France brand which hence promotes the French know-how and demonstrates the ability of the country to be at the cutting edges of innovation.
Last Wednesday, in the Conciergerie de Paris (once a palace, then a Revolutionary court and the prison of Marie-Antoinette), I had the chance to attend the breathtaking couture show of Chinese designer Guo Pei. A 30-minutes long performance with two tech-infused dresses, using fluorescent material and LEDs. The designer, who was brought to the spotlight when Rihanna wore her iconic elaborately embroidered, fur-trimmed yellow dress at the 2015 MET Gala, is an invited member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, since January 2016.
Last week, our team had the opportunity to go to the thrilling Who’s Next x Premiere Classe tradeshow, where once again amazing pieces were gathered in a huge space dedicated to fashion. This time, it was all about GIRLSQUAD, and frankly we had a blast. Between creative workshops, interesting conferences (among which our founder’s animated one, on user experience in retail) and of course a large selection of apparels and accessories, we just did not know where to start. However, we were able to clear our heads when we had the opportunity – thanks to the kindness of the designers who let us wear these – to pick and wear some of our favorite pieces, shot by Florie Berger.
After announcing its own Retail Lab back in May, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), is partnering with consulting giant Accenture. The collaboration, combining the creativity from CFDA’s membership with Accenture’s expertise in technology, will create talent-development programs for fashion designers and retailers.
Today, I had the chance to attend my first Iris van Herpen show! Her shows are not-to-miss rendez-vous, as the pioneering Dutch designer has accustomed us to mastering associations between traditional craft and technology. For every show, she researches and finds new ways to to craft fascinating materials. Since 2007, she has been surprising us: be it hand-inflamed stainless steel wire or live performance of a dress 3D printing and weaving on the show, every collection is a new step into her rich and futuristic creative universe. And today’s show made no exception to the rule.
Despite the rise of new media, television still remains the reference medium, especially for the fashion industry. It reaches a wide audience while it conveys a strong image. The history of fashion and television are closely linked, as explained during a conference we attended, given by Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurdjian, heads of #Semmode at the IHTP/CNRS on December 15th.